Homepage

order by phone 01622 738 699

sales and support lines open from 9am to 5.30pm

You are here: Home > Blog

THESITEBOX.COM Blog

Bolt Thread Lengths

by Ed 13. June 2013 06:31

We are often asked "What length is the thread on this bolt". Here is a quick guide to the bolts that we supply and the thread lengths that they have.

Before that we need to address one thing! When is a bolt not a bolt?


People use the terminology bolt for almost anything that has a hexagon head, this is wrong.  There are two main types that get confused, Hexagon Set Screws and Bolts.  Both have a hexagon head but the Hexagon Set Screw is fully threaded, where a true bolt is only partially thread. So with that cleared up here is how you work out the length of thread on our range of bolts.

Metric Bolts: If the bolt is 125mm in length or below, multiply the metric diameter by two and then add 6mm.  If the length is over 125mm and up to 200mm then add 12mm.  Any bolt over 200mm and you simply add 25mm.

Unified High Tensile Bolts (UNC and UNF): Multiply the diameter by two and then add ¼” for bolts up to 6” or add ½” for bolts over 6”.

Imperial Bolts: Multiply the diameter by two.


Cup Square Bolts: Coach Bolts as they are also known as are fully threaded up to 75mm in length if they are zinc plated and 100mm in length if they are self coloured steel. For all longer Cup Square Bolts you multiply the diameter by two and then add 6mm if the bolt is up to 125mm in length, from 125mm to 200mm long add 12mm and then any over 200mm in length add 25mm.


Imperial Mild Steel Bolts and Nuts: These work slightly differently.  Up to ½” diameter bolts up to 8 inches in length you multiply the diameter by two, over 8 inches you multiply the diameter by two and a half times. Then bolts over ½” diameter you multiply by one and a half times the diameter up 4 inches in length, twice the diameter from 4 inches to 8 inches and then two and a half times the diameter on bolts that are over 8 inches.

Five Tips to Add the Perfect Waterfall to Your Pond

by Gareth Stokes 6. June 2013 06:49

A waterfall is a great feature to add to any pond. In addition to the enhanced look and relaxing sound it will create, a waterfall will also improve the quality of your water by adding much-needed oxygen to it. Building a waterfall isn’t as difficult as people think, but, but if it's not done right, it can end up causing some major problems. Here are five tips to help you avoid some of the biggest pitfalls in your waterfall build.

Choose the Right Location

Before you get started on building your waterfall, it's important to be careful about which location you choose. While you want to make sure that you will be able to see the waterfall easily, you also want to pay attention to the location of underground utilities, as well as the weather conditions in the area you want to build in. As always, if you're planning on digging in a new spot in your garden, make sure that you're not going to be digging up something important or dangerous like a water pipe or electrical line. Also, think about how much wind you get around your pond. Is there a certain location where you can avoid some of the heavier winds? This can be important as heavy winds can cause water loss due to spillage, or in extreme cases can even damage your pump or other mechanical elements.

Choose the Right Materials

The biggest purchase you'll have to make when building a waterfall will probably be a new pump. In order to determine which pump is right for you, you’ll need to do some calculations. As a general rule, you’ll need a flow rate of about 100 gph for every 2.5 cm of stream width. You’ll also need to determine the appropriate head height by measuring the distance between the highest point of the waterfall and the spot where you plan to place the pump. The distance between the two will give you your total head height.  If in doubt, the staff where you buy your pump from will be able to help guide you.

Get the Proportions Right

Size and proportion are the two most important aspects of waterfall construction to get right. Many people get carried away and end up building a waterfall that's far too big and doesn't fit in visually with the rest of the pond. If your pond is 300 cm x 400 cm, you probably don't want to build anything bigger than 40 cm x 50 cm. The idea here, however, is not to get caught up with numbers, but to visualize building a waterfall that's proportionally sized with the rest of your pond.

Make it Look Natural

Another challenging aspect of waterfall building is making the waterfall and stream look like natural features rather than human constructions. The best way to do this is to spend some time outdoors, looking at natural waterfalls and take some notes. You'll see that most streams have gentle curves, and that waterfalls will usually consist of one smaller rock framed by two larger rocks on either side. Take some pictures of naturally-formed features and try to duplicate your favourite elements in order to achieve the best results.

Get Creative

Not every pond is the same, so not every waterfall should look the same either. Take inspiration from the existing features of your garden to determine what kind of waterfall you want to build. Rocks are a classic building solution, but you might also want to try out something different and build a waterfall that flows through a hollow log, drips out of an old tap, or spills out of an antique bucket. Don't feel like your waterfall has to look like every other waterfall you've ever seen.

With even a basic level of construction or DIY experience, you should be able to add a waterfall feature to your pond. Use these tips to help you to build a waterfall that looks natural, proportional, interesting, and beautiful.

Cleaning the Mass Flow Sensor (MAF) in your car

by Dunc 13. May 2013 05:37

The MAF sensor measures the amount of air being drawn into your cars engine, this allows the ECU to adjust the amount of fuel being mixed with the air to ensure optimum fuelling. It works by measuring and regulating the amount of current passed through a heated wire. The amount of current flowing depends on the resistance of the wire which increases as the wire heats. As the air flow increases this cools the wire and the resistance decreases, this allows more current to flow to return the wire's temperature to its pre set, the change in current informs the ECU of the air flow change.

If the MAF becomes dirty then the ECU will receive incorrect results and this can result in incorrect fuelling, higher MPG and other undesirable issues.

I recently decided to give the MAF sensor on my RX8 a clean to see if it would have any effect on its response or the time it takes to settle to idle speed.

The first task was to locate and remove the sensor itself. Logically, it is located in the air intake just after the air cleaner box.

The wiring is removed by simply removing the connector plug.

Then the sensor itself is held in place with 2 screws, these weren't very tight so I remembered not to over tighten them when I replaced the sensor.

With the sensor removed I replaced the screws into their respective holes.

The sensor unit looked clean and in good condition.

This is the sensor unit, the bulb device you can see above is a temperature sensor. The actual MAF sensor wires are hidden within the plastic tube, you can see them if you look end on, like this.

You can see the sensor wires in this top down view. To my eyes they looked fairly shiny and clean but thought I would continue with the clean anyway. The car has just under 18,000 miles on it so there should be some dirt on there to get rid of.

These wires are very delicate and should not be poked or prodded with anything. Luckily there are dedicated cleaning products available that mean you don't have to touch anything. I went for some CRC Air Sensor Cleaner which I found on Ebay for less than £10.

It smells of Isopropyl Alcohol which would make sense as its a good cleaner that will evaporate, leaving no residue.

I gave the sensors 3 good sprays with 5 minutes between each and then allowed the sensor to air dry for half an hour before refitting it. I cleaned the area around the sensors mounting hole and the sealing o ring on the sensor itself before inserting the sensor back into place.  I then took the car for a drive and all was well, though I didn't really notice much of a difference. It may have been slightly more responsive but that could have just been in my mind.

Is this worth doing? Well, it can't hurt to ensure the sensor is working as well it possibly can and on a higher mileage car you may notice more of an improvement.

What is an RCD and should I use them?

by Dunc 10. May 2013 06:28

RCD stands for Residual Current Device.

 

We all know that electricity is dangerous to us humans, this is why our sockets have internal plastic shields and why some plugs have a coating along half their length ( this attempts to prevent your finger from the pin should you be holding the plug incorrectly as you insert it into a socket ).  It is also the reason that each plug is fitted with a fuse that will blow and cut the supply should excess current be drawn.

 

You might think that the fuse would be all the protection required but in reality the protection it offers is quite basic and even if your plugs are fitted with a 3A fuse it would only take a fraction of the current required to blow that fuse to kill the average human.

 

An RCD works by continually checking for a difference in the current that flows to a device and the current that is returned from the device. What goes one way should come back the other.  Should some of the current manage to get out of the system, either through a short circuit, an unexpected earth connection or worse, through you, the RCD will instantly trip and shut the power off.

 

RCDs are rated both in terms of their sensitivity and the speed at which they can disconnect the supply voltage. The best ratings to look for are a current flow discrepancy of 30mA or less and a shut off time no greater than 40ms, this would protect a human from serious electrical shock.  Lower rated RCDs would still be useful for preventing electrical fires.

 

There are various different styles of RCD from those that replace a standard wall socket to those that you fit in-line on an extension cable.  They are particularly useful if not essential items when working with power tools or electrical garden tools such as mowers or strimmers as it is all to easy to accidentally run over and cut a cable due to a distraction.

 

RCD users should not become complacent just because an RCD is in use, heavily used electrical extension cables should be inspected to ensure they are in good condition on a regular basis.

 

So to answer the title question – yes, you should use RCDs. They do save lives and protect against electrical fire.


Learn more about Residual Current Devices (RCDs) with the RCD Handbook

Online Shopping - A Guide for the New Online Shopper

by Dunc 1. May 2013 10:23

If you are new to shopping online it can seen somewhat daunting at first.  You may have heard about online security and identity protection but you don’t need to worry, a little bit of know how and some common sense will see you through.

Should I Trust This Web Shop?

 

 

You wouldn’t buy a car from a person that offered no form of ID or contact details so carry this thinking over to online shopping. If a web shop doesn’t offer clear contact details or company info then you would be wise to walk away. A legitimate and trustworthy web shop has nothing to hide and should make it as easy to get in touch as possible. Be on the lookout for phone, email and postal details. Other important details are the business registration and VAT numbers.

A very simple way to check out a company is to give them a call and ask them a question about the product you wish to purchase, they should be able to answer your question.

 

Badges

 

Many websites submit themselves to various consumer protection organisations and codes of practice.  Should a website comply with the consumer protection rules of an organisation it will display a badge that when clicked will present the credentials and status of the website. These are good indications of the security and trustworthiness of the website.

These badges show that the web shop is checked or scanned for security flaws and has passed. They also ensure that the company is who they claim to be.

The image below is an example of these badges taken from www.thesitebox.com.

The Shopping Basket

 

Once you have found an item that you wish to purchase you will need to put it into your shopping basket in order to take it to the checkout. This is as simple as clicking a button and once done you will be given some visual indication that the item has been added to your basket. An area of the screen will be dedicated to the contents of your basket, it could show you a complete run down of the items in your basket or it could simply tell you how many items are in there and the total amount of your shopping so far.

This image shows an example with the basket area highlighted and enlarged.

You can keep adding to your basket until you have selected everything you need.

Before you complete your order and pay, it is a good idea to check the contents of the basket to double check that everything is correct. You may also be presented with a delivery cost estimate at this stage, remember that delivery cost may change depending upon the delivery address that you will provide later on.


Completing the Buying Process Online

Once you have decided to purchase the items in your online shopping basket it is time to move on to the checkout process. Every site will be slightly different but they all need the same info to complete the order.

 

Padlocks - Securing Your Personal Details

In order to keep your personal details secure as they are transmitted to and from the website the data should be encrypted. This is generally only done on the pages where you enter your details or those that display your saved personal details.

There are two very simple ways to ensure that the page is encrypted. Look at the start of the website's address for the page ( the URL ), it should change slightly from the previous page to start with https://. The important part of this is the s, this indicates a secure connection. The second way is to look for the padlock symbol, this should show a closed padlock similar to the image below - different web browsers may show it elsewhere.

You won’t usually see either of the above outside of the checkout process as there is no need for encryption at that point.

 

Secure Payment Methods

The most secure methods of paying for an online purchase are credit cards and online payment methods such as PayPal.  You should avoid using a debit card as these generally do not offer the same level of purchase protection as a credit card.

Don’t forget to look for the padlock and https:// when paying for your purchase.

 

Entering Your Details

At some point during the checkout you will be asked to enter your personal details. Info such as your name, address and email address are crucial. Ensure that you get everything right. Some people use a fake email address to avoid getting emails but it also cuts off the fastest form of communication between the seller and you, if there is a problem with your order the seller needs to contact you.

Sometimes the checkout page will ask you to type in some details twice, this is to ensure that you haven’t made a mistake, if the two pieces of data do not match then there is an issue.

 

After Your Purchase

Once your order is complete you should be presented with confirmation of the order, an order number ( you can take a note but you should also get this info in an email ).  In the day or days following the web shop will send out emails to keep you up to date with the status of your order.

Site Ratings

You may be asked for optional feedback on your purchase either directly after the checkout process or via an email sent a short time later. These can ask you to use a star rating system or to simply leave a short message. If you have any comments or suggestions then let the company know. They will appreciate your comments and act on any problems you may have had.

New look for THESITEBOX.COM

by Dunc 24. April 2013 10:23

You may have noticed a new look to THESITEBOX.COM website.

  • The new menu makes it faster and easier to find the products you are looking for, one or two clicks is all it takes.
  • Larger images
  • For items such as woodscrews you can access all sizes from one page thanks to the drop down boxes.

We now show you every size of a fixing on one page, no more long lists. Every size is presented in a drop down box that allows you to select all the sizes you need and add them to your cart.

 

We are always looking to improve and if you have any ideas or have any questions about how to use the new look site please get in touch.

Announcement - EU Duty on Malleable Conduit Fittings

by Dunc 28. November 2012 07:05

On the 14th Nov 2012 the European Commission issued regulation No 1071/2012 imposing an anti dumping duty on imports of threaded tube or pipe cast fittings of malleable cast iron, originating the People's Republic of China and Thailand.

This effects a small number of our conduit accessories but does not impact on availability.

Preparing for Winter Driving Conditions - a Top 10

by Sarah 5. September 2012 11:37

 

Driving conditions can get treacherous in winter, and you should prepare yourself and your vehicle for these conditions.

From torrential rain and flash flooding to coping with driving in snow and ice, the winter months make driving difficult for us all. In this blog I am going to share my tips and suggestions to help with the winter conditions.

First I would like to start with the preparation of your vehicle for the coming winter months. One of the more important checks are your brakes and tyres, you need to check to see if your brake pads or discs need replacing, it is advisable to have a professional mechanic do this, but if you are proficient with car maintenance then you can do the checks yourself. It is also advisable to keep a regular check on the tyre pressures and tread depth, you can get gauges to do this and ensure you are within the safe limits.

It is always advisable to have your battery checked before the winter; normally this would be done by a technician but if you are experienced in car maintenance, then you can do the checks yourself with our battery/alternator voltage tester.

Check your engine oil, brake, transmission and power steering fluid levels regularly to ensure that the fluids are within safe and recommended levels - and make sure the coolant level in the radiator and the water level windscreen washer bottles are topped up during the winter months. It is also wise to keep your petrol tank above half during the winter, so you can be sure that you have enough fuel to run heat if you are stranded. Check all lights and replace any bulbs that are not working properly - this helps to ensure your visibility during the bad weather.

Top 10 items to keep in your car during the winter months

  1. Roadside Breakdown kit
    This kit contains a warning triangle, a reflective hi Vis vest and a rubber torch, if you either breakdown or get stuck in the snow this kit will help to make you visible to other road users.
  2. Fuel Can
    If you found yourself stuck in bad traffic or in the snow then it is always good to have spare fuel available to you.
  3. First Aid Kit
    You should always have a first aid kit in your car, but especially during the winter as the chance of a road accident increases.
  4. Waterproof hi vis jacket
    If you were to breakdown or get caught in a bad traffic jam during the winter months then a weatherproof hi Vis jacket would be a necessity to help keep you warm and dry while outside the vehicle.
  5. Snow or folding shovel
    These would be of great help if stuck in the snow, the snow shovel is good for clearing paths and moving large amounts of snow while the smaller shovel would be good for moving snow compacted away from the tyres.
  6. Wellies and warm socks
    If you do breakdown or get stuck in the snow, you will probably be outside of your car for at least some of the time, as well as a warm jacket it would also be advisable to have a good pair of wellington boots and a couple of pairs of warm socks.
  7. Tyre pressures
    It is always advisable to keep a regular check on your tyre pressure during the winter months, this pencil type tyre gauge is very easy to store in the car so you will always be able to check the pressure where ever you are.
  8. Jump Leads
    Stuck in the snow with a flat battery, then flag down a friendly driver and ask if he can give you a jump. I personally keep these leads with me through out the year.
  9. Ice scraper
    When your window is iced up, this will make short work of de-icing your windscreen.
  10. Car cover
    And finally one you have completed your journey and you need to park on the road or outside on driveways then a cover can help to protect your car against frost.

So that's what we recommend you keep in your car or workshop and why! We hope that we have covered it all, let us know in the comments below of your own winter driving tips!

Finally...

You always have to cope with and be aware of other drivers actions, but this time of year really brings out the daft driving behaviour in a lot of people so, please be aware of them too  - we can't help you with that, but hope that we have helped you to prepare for winter driving conditions. Please keep safe on all your winter journeys - driving, walking, busing or on the train - and if we at THESITEBOX.COM can help you to prepare for the winter then call our sales/customer service line.

Thanks for reading, Dave!

Thanks for that UNISTRUT!

by Sarah 8. August 2012 09:10

We're not sure whether to laugh, cry, sigh or just do all three right now. We ordered some unistrut basket tray L supports for a customer. It was a special order, and so took three weeks to get delivered, but look at what they sent compared to the catalogue picture! THANKS UNISTRUT!

It's all sorted but what a palava! We guess Bender was off stealing treasure from the past or something.

A DIY Step Ladder for Stairs

by Sarah 20. July 2012 06:39

I thought I would share this little gem with you; the terrifying DIY step-ladder-for-stairs…

step ladder on a staircase

Notice the artfully placed wooden stilts that the back legs are rested on? And then the cable ties which are holding the stilts to the legs - I hope they've been properly tensioned! Look again, and notice the very small ledge that the legs of the ladder are balanced on? Is this a Coroner Report photo? All that’s missing is the chalk outline!

The right sort of ladders to use on stairs!

Whilst cable ties are great for a “There I fixed it moment”, they cannot always be a long term solution, and as for the improper use of step ladders? Stair step ladders are available, and cost far less than time off work for broken bones!

Remember - each time, every job - safety first. Get the right gear, do the job properly, safely and gain recommendations for that, don’t earn a reputation for shortcutting!

Please take a moment to share this post with your friends, and to leave a comment - we value your feedback and your custom!